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Timaru
Reviewed by Diana
Other
Christchurch Restaurants
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Date/Time:
8 January 2008, 8 pm
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Restaurant:
Steak@Customs House
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Booking:
Not always necessary – we were lucky and just walked in - ph 03 684 5528
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Where
to Find:
2 Strathallen Street, Timaru
steak@customshouse.co.nz
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Parking:
on the street
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Service:
Excellent, knowledgeable and unobtrusive by cellarmaster and part-owner.
Both David and chef Jared Aldridge showed us yet another example
of the difference between even the best staff and the passion and
delight of people doing what they love in their own business. David
was more than happy to answer our questions about the restaurant
itself, and choice of fine local products - and took constructive
criticism about the woeful spelling on the menu with good humour!
(okay, I know I’m the spelling police…)
Presentation:
Simplicity is the key in décor, staff turnout and food; entirely
professional. The food is the star, and that’s the way it should
be in my book. The duck confit on a galette of shredded duck and
mushrooms with a slightly caramelised sauce was delicate and understated.
The fish of the day was beautifully presented rolls of sole with
salmon, with a saffron sauce and tempura prawns – when I cook this
myself I always have the prawns in the roulade, with the classic
white wine sauce, and was impressed with the subtlety and delicious
kick given by the saffron. The steamed summer vegetables were kept
pure and unadorned. All very charming.
Wine List:
Impressive – and very well organized. Separate selection by the
glass. Although I’m always more than happy to choose my own wine,
asking staff for their recommendations is always a litmus test.
We took cellarmaster Davis Pearce’s suggestions and were pleased
we did. The Pegasus Bay Merlot/Cab Sauv 2004 with the duck confit
was surprisingly youthful, spicy, and puckering, still with red
fruits on the nose. The Omaka Springs Pinot Gris 2007 with the sole
was served too cold (a common fault in NZ restaurants), but once
it warmed up it opened out, with elegant pear and lime forming a
perfect foil for the dish.
Value for
Money:
Very good indeed – and unusual for
food of this quality.
Ambience:
Intimate, chic and relaxed
with 10 tables only, in a wonderful Oamaru stone character building,
which has been through a number of hands as a restaurant: for many
years Roberto Lombardi ran my old favourite Casa Italia from here,
then it was briefly Tri Amici.
The feel
good factor:
Well I’ll be honest – we
were in two minds about what sounded like an upmarket steakhouse
– but don’t be fooled, this is so much more. Their steaks did look
extremely tempting – but we both enjoyed our choices very much and
will cheerfully go back again to try their spectacular hand-cut
fillets. Heartily recommended.
 

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